Good morning, Swansea!

At the bottom of West Cross, tucked next to the TA Centre and hidden from the road, there's a squat concrete building that's barely changed since the 1950s that most people don’t know is even there.

But behind those walls is Swansea's very own nuclear bunker - the place local officials planned to run the city from if the bombs ever fell. This week, we're going inside.

Catch you on Sunday!

Andrew

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Built for the worst

Credit: Subterranea Britannica

During the Cold War, local and regional authorities across Britain were given instructions on what to do if nuclear war broke out. The answer, in most places, was to go underground - or in Swansea's case, into a fortified blockhouse in West Cross.

The site is officially known as an AAOR - an Above Ground Alternative Regional seat. Unlike the deep bunkers you might picture, this one sits entirely above ground, a two-storey reinforced structure designed to be blast-resistant rather than buried. It was built in the 1950s and handed over to West Glamorgan County Council to serve as their War Room: the place from which a handful of officials would try to manage whatever remained of the region after a nuclear strike.

What's inside

Credit: Subterranea Britannica

The lower floor still holds much of its original fit-out: a vintage GPO telephone switchboard standing upright, old BT exchange equipment, and the original ventilation plant. There's also a replacement generator - the original was written off after someone started it without any oil.

The upper level once had a maze of small rooms and winding corridors, partitioned off for different functions. The fire brigade eventually condemned the layout, and the fibreboard walls were stripped out, leaving three large open rooms now used as conference space.

An original BT switchboard | Credit: derelictplaces.co.uk

The centrepiece is the main two-storey control room, with a balcony overlooking the lower floor and curved Perspex windows on two sides - the kind of detail that makes the place feel less like a council building and more like a film or TV set.

Which, as it turns out, is exactly what it became.

When the Daleks came to West Cross

Credit: BBC

In August 2009, a BBC film crew arrived at the bunker. The control room was used as Churchill's underground War Rooms in Victory of the Daleks - an episode starring Matt Smith in his first full series as the Eleventh Doctor - a real 1950s Cold War command centre dressed up as wartime Whitehall.

As an aside, it wasn't the only Swansea location the BBC had been drawn to. The city had become well-trodden ground for the Doctor Who production team by this point, with the Brangwyn Hall used across multiple episodes of both Doctor Who and Torchwood, and Swansea University's library appearing in Smith and Jones.

From War Room to training centre

A “Planning for War” presentation in the bunker. Credit: Swansea Museum Photographic Archive

After Welsh local government reorganisation in the 1980s, the site passed from West Glamorgan County Council to the City and County of Swansea, who used it as their Major Incident Command and Control Centre. Today it's managed by the Joint Emergency Planning Unit covering Swansea, Bridgend, and Neath Port Talbot, and used primarily as a training facility - hired out to appropriate bodies.

The two radar towers that once sat on the roof have been demolished and replaced by a single mast, currently rented to mobile phone operators. The rest of the exterior remains largely as it was when it was built, seven decades ago.

📰 From the archive: 1988

Credit: Swansea Museum Photographic Archive

By the 1980s, the bunker wasn't in great shape. A report by senior council officers - including fire chief Jim Windsor - branded the building "substandard and a danger to the health and safety of anyone needing to work there." More than £66,000 was needed just to make it safe, with a further £85,000 to bring it up to Home Office standard.

Not everyone thought it was worth the money. The West Glamorgan Nuclear-Free Alliance called the whole exercise "futile" - pointing out that the council's own assessment put the death toll from a nuclear strike on the region at over 100,000.

The council's public protection chairman admitted they were "doing a lot of things here we don't want to do" under the 1983 Civil Defence Regulations. Wales, the alliance noted, was the first nuclear-free country in the world.

Still standing

The Cold War it was designed for never came. Swansea was never struck, and the War Room never had to fulfil its purpose. But the bunker is still there - still in use, still largely unchanged, still easy to miss. Next time you're out towards West Cross, you'll know what you're driving past.

I’ll catch you on Sunday!

Andrew.

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